Paint Protection Film

Urethane Film For The Panels That Cop Stones

Thick, clear urethane on the strike zone — the one thing here that actually absorbs impact.

What film is for

Paint protection film is a clear thermoplastic urethane, typically 150 to 200 microns thick, laid over paint with adhesive and conformed with heat. That thickness is the whole point. Where a ceramic coating is measured in single-digit microns and resists chemistry, film is thick enough to absorb the kinetic energy of a stone and deform instead of letting the paint chip.

If you drive the Monash, the Western Ring Road or the Hume with any regularity, your bonnet leading edge and front bumper are taking constant small hits. Melbourne's freeway network runs a lot of trucks, and the aggregate they drop is what stipples dark bonnets with white specks by year three. Film is the only answer to that problem.

Where it goes

Coverage is a budget decision, and the sensible ladder looks like this.

  • Partial front. Bonnet leading edge, front bumper, mirror caps, headlights. Cheapest, covers most chip strikes, leaves a visible line across the bonnet.
  • Full front. Entire bonnet, both front guards, bumper, mirrors, A-pillars and headlights. No line across your eyeline, materially more film and labour.
  • High-impact plus. Full front with rocker panels, rear wheel arch leading edges and the boot loading lip added, which covers the stone throw from your own front wheels.
  • Full body. Every painted panel. Expensive, and mostly bought for cars that are stored and driven hard on weekends.

Door cup handles and the boot lip are cheap add-ons and they are where most people get their first fingernail scratches, so they are usually worth doing regardless of package.

The honest downsides

Film is not invisible. There is an edge line on any partial coverage, there is a very slight texture difference you can feel with a fingertip, and on cars with complex bumpers there will be relief cuts. It costs several times what a coating costs on the same panels. It needs to go onto clean, straight paint, which usually means paint correction first — film magnifies whatever is under it rather than hiding it. And it has a service life; good film is warranted for around a decade, not forever.

It also does nothing for the panels it is not on. A stone that hits your rear quarter still chips the paint. That is why most people running film also run a coating over the whole car, so the unfilmed panels get the chemical and UV protection and the filmed panels get both.

Film plus coating

A coating applied over cured film gives you one consistent surface to wash, adds slickness so the film releases dirt, and adds UV load onto a sacrificial layer rather than onto the urethane itself. It is the combination we recommend for dark metallics that live outdoors in places like Doncaster and Glen Waverley, where the car bakes in an open driveway all day and still does freeway kilometres.

Pricing depends almost entirely on coverage and how complex the panels are to template and conform. The cost guide explains the drivers, our service areas page lists where we travel, and you can book an inspection to get it in writing.

More services

Explore our other services

Ceramic Coating

A hard, semi-permanent clear layer over your paint that resists etching, chemicals and UV fade.

Learn more →

Paint Correction

Machine polishing that removes swirls and oxidation before anything gets sealed over the top.

Learn more →

Interior Protection

Fabric, leather and plastic coatings that buy you time on spills and slow UV cracking on the dash.

Learn more →

Wheel and Glass Coating

Heat-tolerant coating on wheel faces and barrels, plus a hydrophobic layer on the windscreen.

Learn more →
FAQs

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between PPF and ceramic coating?

Thickness and purpose. Paint protection film is roughly 150 to 200 microns of urethane that physically absorbs stone impacts. A ceramic coating is a few microns of hard resin that resists chemicals and UV. Film protects against damage you can feel with a fingernail; coating protects against damage you can only see. They solve different problems and are often used together.

Will the film edges be visible?

On a partial wrap, yes, there is a fine edge line where the film stops. A skilled installer hides it in a panel gap or a body line and most people never notice it once the car is clean. Full panel wraps wrap the edges around, which removes the line but costs more and takes longer. Ask to see the planned edge positions before work starts.

Does paint protection film yellow over time?

Older films did. Current top-tier urethanes have UV inhibitors and a self-healing topcoat, and yellowing is now rare within the warranty period. Cheap film still yellows, especially on a bonnet parked outdoors through Melbourne summers. Ask for the specific film brand and its warranty length in writing rather than accepting the word film on a quote.

Can film be removed without damaging the paint?

Quality film on healthy factory paint comes off cleanly with heat and patience, leaving adhesive residue that wipes away with the right solvent. The risk is on resprayed panels or paint that was already lifting, where the film can be stronger than the bond underneath. Tell your installer about any panel work before the film goes on.

Free, no-obligation

Get your free quote today

Call 03 6173 9825